Fitting Some Damn Pants Part II

I took a spin at tailoring my muslin from Burda Style Magazine Dec. 2017 trousers #127. (Can you say that five times fast?)

Following the “Pants for Real People” Palmer/Pletsch process to my muslin with 1-inch seam allowances and fitting gridlines for guidance, I made these changes:

  • Took a 1 cm tuck along the center back to reduce fullness. I did this just on the left side (when viewed from the rear) but left the right side alone so you can see the difference this adjustment makes.
  • Removed the stupid elastic from the back waistband and added two darts for shaping and fit.
  • Revised the crotch curve and sewed it with a 1 cm seam allowance to give my rear more real estate.
  • Revised the low hip (widest part of my leg) with a 1 cm seam allowance to give my front thighs some relief.

Behold (complete with photobombing dog):

Here’s the “before” picture:

We are getting somewhere, but still have work to do.

Issues on the back:

  • The tuck down the front of the pants works well to remove all those crazy wrinkles. I could do more – I will try another 1 cm tuck parallel to the first.
  • Wrinkles under the seat – not sure what do do there – must investigate.
  • Waist fit looks good. I may need to do more later to bring up the center back.

Issues with the side:

  • You can see how the blue grid lines on the muslin slope down on my butt and there are wrinkles across the side. That’s because the crotch curve still isn’t right. I need to change the shape and deepen the curve more.
  • My legs tend to hyperextend toward the back, which results in those wrinkles along the side, pointing toward my back calves. Basically, between my prominent front thighs and my extended back calves, pants on me tend to go sideways. You can see how the side seam is not straight up and down but rather shifts forward in the front and back in the back. I believe that if I can get the crotch curve right and remove those wrinkles under my butt, I’ll make a start at eliminating this problem. But I need to investigate more.

Stay tuned for muslin #3!

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Author: shoes15

I live in Connecticut, USA with my husband and my dog, in an old house outfitted with a sewing room, a garden, an orchard, and a big liquor cabinet.

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