Fitting Some Damn Pants Part III

So I screwed around more with my muslin from Burda 12-2017 Trousers 127. To remove more wrinkles and bagginess from the back, a 1 cm vertical tuck running from waist to hem worked pretty well. But it was still a bit baggy, so I added a second 1 cm tuck alongside the first.

Behold (the “before” picture is the one with the doggy photobomb – the leg on the left has a 1 cm tuck, the leg on the right has none). The picture on the left shows 2 cm tucks on both legs:

So it’s better – not perfect – but maybe as good as I can get it. I will extend the crotch curve a bit on the next pair, so that will take care of the “ass eating my pants” situation. I ignore that problem for now.

I also let out the inseam 1 cm from the knee on down  (I sewed this muslin with 1 inch seam allowances), which was supposed to stop the fabric from twisting at the calves because of my extended calf situation. Behold (again, the “after” picture is on the left):

 

I don’t see much improvement here from the side view. At the hip, you can see how the gridlines on “after” picture are straighter and there’s less pulling at my big forward thighs. But there’s still twisting at the knee. Again, ass-vs-pants will be fixed with a crotch curve change.

OK, I thought, maybe I can live with some twisting at the knee. I mean, literally every pair of close-fitting RTW pants I have twists at the knee.

But oh crap – look at the front:

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What a shit show. Ignore that bulge at the waist (I didn’t properly pin up where the zipper goes). But those thigh whiskers are terrible. This isn’t a case where I can just pin out a bit of excess. This is my thighs desperately seeking more fabric – from anywhere.

So, in desperation, I did this:

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Sorry for the sloppy photo but I was at the end of my rope at this point. I stood there thinking “Why can’t I do a full-thigh adjustment?” Just like you’d do a “full bicep” or “full bust” adjustment? Slash the pattern where you need the fabric, fill with paper and tape it back up.

It makes sense in theory. I turned to strangers on the Internet and found absolutely no advice to do it this way. All I know is when I cut open the thighs, the problem disappeared. I might as well try it.

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Fitting Some Damn Pants Part II

I took a spin at tailoring my muslin from Burda Style Magazine Dec. 2017 trousers #127. (Can you say that five times fast?)

Following the “Pants for Real People” Palmer/Pletsch process to my muslin with 1-inch seam allowances and fitting gridlines for guidance, I made these changes:

  • Took a 1 cm tuck along the center back to reduce fullness. I did this just on the left side (when viewed from the rear) but left the right side alone so you can see the difference this adjustment makes.
  • Removed the stupid elastic from the back waistband and added two darts for shaping and fit.
  • Revised the crotch curve and sewed it with a 1 cm seam allowance to give my rear more real estate.
  • Revised the low hip (widest part of my leg) with a 1 cm seam allowance to give my front thighs some relief.

Behold (complete with photobombing dog):

Here’s the “before” picture:

We are getting somewhere, but still have work to do.

Issues on the back:

  • The tuck down the front of the pants works well to remove all those crazy wrinkles. I could do more – I will try another 1 cm tuck parallel to the first.
  • Wrinkles under the seat – not sure what do do there – must investigate.
  • Waist fit looks good. I may need to do more later to bring up the center back.

Issues with the side:

  • You can see how the blue grid lines on the muslin slope down on my butt and there are wrinkles across the side. That’s because the crotch curve still isn’t right. I need to change the shape and deepen the curve more.
  • My legs tend to hyperextend toward the back, which results in those wrinkles along the side, pointing toward my back calves. Basically, between my prominent front thighs and my extended back calves, pants on me tend to go sideways. You can see how the side seam is not straight up and down but rather shifts forward in the front and back in the back. I believe that if I can get the crotch curve right and remove those wrinkles under my butt, I’ll make a start at eliminating this problem. But I need to investigate more.

Stay tuned for muslin #3!

Fitting Some Damn Pants

I am really trying to fit some slim-fit pants. I can do high-waist, wide-leg pants, but anything slim-fitting is just a shit show.

I was inspired by some pants in the Burda  December 2017 issue to try pants that have a back yoke, a little back elastic, and slim legs with zippers at the ankles.  Here is my muslin with gridlines per the Palmer-Pletsch method to identify trouble spots:

You’ll see from the side views that the lines that should be horizontal are dipping – that’s because my ass needs more fabric in the back. I am not sure where the wrinkles in the front are coming from, or what the solution is there.

The elastic in the back is doing bupkes. Besides that there is a crazy number of wrinkles and weird angles in the back. And twisting around the calves.

Basically, a shit show. Is it worthwhile to continue?

 

My Many Mistakes

I finished this blouse today – a project from the Italian sewing magazine La Mia Boutique. This is a design from the up-and-coming Italian designer Eliana Riccio. Her style blends girly boho shapes with edgy details. I thought a little edgy blouse would be useful in the wardrobe.

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I made a resolution this year to get over my tendency to make a lot of mistakes when sewing. I would sew a lot faster and enjoy it a lot more if I could stop doing stupid things. So with this blouse – a rather complex project, what with the split sleeves with plackets and cuffs and the collar with collar stand – how did I do?

  • I sewed some of my flat-felled seams backwards.
  • I sewed the left sleeve onto the right side of the bodice.
  • I sewed things wrong side to right side a couple of times.
  • I sewed little tucks into things and had to unpick several times.
  • I tore open a buttonhole a tad when cutting it open.
  • The collar pattern matching is dodgy.

I fixed most of these errors but said the hell with the collar.

I also ran into a problem where the sleeves were way way way too long, and I elected to make the cuffs smaller instead of shortening the sleeves and having to calculate where to put the pleats and worrying that the cuffs wouldn’t fit.

So, I’d give myself a C- in Home Ec, per the usual. I really need some strategies to get over my error-prone ways. Any ideas?

Skirt of Doom

Do you ever know when a sewing project is doomed from the start?

A colleague of mine wears a cute kilt-like skirt to work that has a little asymmetrical overlay. I like it and figured it would be easy enough to sew, so I grabbed New Look 6326 to try View D (the floral print skirt on the pattern envelope).

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New Look patterns are nice for a few reasons. The envelope usually includes a wide range of sizes (sizes 10-22 in this case) and some various views that are truly different, not just minor variations on a theme. The patterns also are pretty inexpensive because there’s just one garment, not a wardrobe.

Pattern in hand, I looked for some fabric in New York’s Garment District. This store at 257 W 39rd Street beckoned because it offers deep discounts and usually has a great selection of wools. I wanted a plaid – maybe a Tattersall or Buffalo check – to highlight the asymmetrical front hem.

I have shopped in New York’s Garment District for years and have learned to put up with and even sometimes enjoy the crowded stores, the haggling, the thrill of the hunt and the mercurial customer service to get the best quality and greatest variety of fabrics imaginable. The store at this location is currently called Gate 232, but it’s gone by various other names over the years. It has some nice stuff and a lot of junk.

I found some navy wool crepe in an uneven windowpane plaid that would be perfect – not too heavy with a good drape. I found it in the wool section of the store with big signs everywhere saying the fabrics were $10 a yard. When I inquired about the fabric, however, I was told it was not part of the “sale” and instead was $12 a yard. I bargained with the guy to get the $10 a yard. I am OK with this in theory – haggling is part of the Garment District culture, but it rubbed me the wrong way that magically the very thing I wanted was not part of the so-called “sale.”

I inspected the fabrics before asking for a cuts, since I have also learned the hard way that fabrics can be stained, torn, or have defects. It seemed fine, but it is dark and cramped in that store, so I didn’t do as good a job as I would have elsewhere.

At the register the guy took my credit card and mumbled something about “10 percent.” What? I asked him. He was trying to charge me a 10% fee for using a credit card. There is no sign of this “store policy” anywhere. I grabbed back my credit card and walked out. He guy yelled at me that I had to pay for something once it was cut. I yelled back that he was chiseling me for a bogus fee after we’d agreed on the price, and I’d be happy to take it up with the city’s consumer protection bureau. He relented, cursing that he’d been in business X years and this had never happened before, blah blah.

When I got home, I found that the wool crepe was shot full of little holes that are visible if you hold the fabric up to the light. I guess moths had eaten it? I sent the fabrics to the cleaners to be steam cleaned, to be sure any moths were dead.

I soldiered on. I was able to squeeze the skirt out of the fabric (I had bought enough to make a long skirt but settled for a shorter skirt). The front asymmetrical overlay went together well, but I stupidly did not stabilize the crepe and because it’s slightly on the bias, it pulled a little when I sewed it, distorting the plaid a bit.

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I decided I could live with it and kept going. I sewed the back darts, sewed rest of the skirt together plus the right-side waistband (but not the facing yet) and tried it on for fit. I usually need wide darts or double darts in the back of a skirt, and indeed, I did in this case, so I sewed another set of darts near the first. When I tried it on, it looked a little lumpy back there, but I figured it would press out and look right once I’d installed the zipper and waistband.

I set the project aside for about a month because of illness and other commitments. When I came back to it yesterday, I looked in dismay at the waistband – it was sewn on crookedly. How did that happen? I unpicked it, only to remember too late that I’d graded the seam (sloppily in some places), accounting for the goof. Yikes. I marked the sewing line with chalk, using a flashlight to follow the old stitching line, since the seam allowance was gone and unevenly graded.

Thinking I was back on track, I put in the invisible zipper and the waistband facing. I gave it a good press, smoothing out the hips on a ham, and pinned up the hem to try it on. Oh brother. My backside looks like this:

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What the hell?!? I cannot account for this weird pleating and crazy excess fabric! I pinched it out just to see what I was dealing with, and the result is a hot mess because the plaid is ruined. Also, the waistband is uneven despite my best efforts.

So, is this my first wadder of 2018? Can this skirt be saved?

Jumping into Burda Style Sewing Patterns

Look what arrived in the mail yesterday!

IMG_20180111_112536My first Burda Style magazine, ordered as a back issue from the magazine distributor. I was inspired by some bloggers I follow (Dressmaking Debacles and Doctor T Designs)   to give Burda a chance, and the December issue had several patterns that interested me. Plus, there’s advice on how to alter patterns for asymmetrical shoulders, which I always do (but not the “right” way, I’ve learned).

I have sewn Burda tissue patterns twice and have gotten good results, although the skirt I made last year was more of a slog than it should have been. The fit baffled me and I didn’t like the way the lining went in. I was pressed for time because the skirt was for a contest.

At the time I said I hated Burda. I am giving it another chance. I’ve learned that Burda’s block may be a better fit for me because they draft for someone 5’6″ and some patterns are for women 5’9″, so I am less likely to need to lengthen bodices and hems. Their “plus” sizes have great dimensions for my shape. Finally, tracing patterns onto paper and adding seam allowances annoys me less than it used to. I have realized that the tracing and measuring can be a good diversion for me; at times when I am too tired to cut or sew, I can trace and measure and feel like I accomplished something. Also, I just got a big roll of Swedish tracing paper, so I am all kitted up.

Burda Dec 2017

 

BS1712_Modellenuebersicht_NL_2Burda’s pants hold great promise for me. I am starting with these, from the “plus size” collection in this magazine. The line drawing’s rough and the photo of the project doesn’t really do it justice. Anyway, these are pants with a curved waistband, a side zip and a little bit of elastic at center back, which should be great for my big waist-to-butt ratio. I really like a pair of RTW pants that have this feature, and I have no idea how to do it myself. The pants also have zippers at the ankles, which I like for a bit of edgy style.

The pattern suggests stretch woven fabrics, and I have some nice charcoal stretch woven wool gabardine in my stash.

I will make a muslin out of the Swedish tracing paper, using the Palmer-Pletsch method I learned in a class in 2016 of adding 1-inch seam allowances and drawing some horizontal lines along the pattern at key places to check for fitting issues. The lines should be parallel to the floor, so if the lines on your muslin curve out or in, you know you need to make an adjustment there. Typically, I need to pinch out fabric at my hip crease and add a bit to center back.

Assuming these pants go well, I have my eye on a dress, blouse and jacket in this issue. I am trying not to get ahead of myself.

Binge Eating

Last night, I was watching the first episode of the new season of “Stranger Things,” just sitting on the couch with my dog in my lap and my husband in his recliner next to us. A character on the show was eating Cheetos. I wanted some Cheetos. We happened to have some of these “phony health halo organic puffed cheese snacks” in the house. So I poured what was left in the bag into a cereal bowl. Another character on the show was drinking a big glass of Coke or Pepsi. We didn’t have any of that, but we did have some ginger ale, so I grabbed a bottle of that.

I wasn’t hungry, or thirsty, or particularly craving or interested in this food. About halfway through I thought about stopping, but I didn’t until I’d eaten every cheese puff in the bowl and drained the soda bottle.

That’s what binge eating looks like for me. Mindless stupid eating. I’ve been doing this for the past couple of days. I’ve gained 2 pounds. As near as I can remember, I ate six pieces of cornbread, six slices of toast with leftover cannoli filling spread on top, four chocolate-dipped macaroons, four snickerdoodles, a couple of mini shortbread cookies, a big ham and cheese sandwich grilled in butter, a piece of a chocolate bar, who knows what else. This was on top of regular healthy meals.

We had my husband’s office friends to dinner Saturday, so a lot of this food was party leftovers. I should have just thrown it out but instead I methodically ate it all. The sweets are the worst part of it – I have a little sugar and I want more more more. I stopped before I ate everything, and now the fever’s passed and I don’t want any more. Whatever my husband doesn’t eat tonight is going in the trash.

I go on a binge like this a couple of times a year, usually when I am very bored. I wanted to share a few tips for getting out of the cycle:

  • Drink a lot of water and decaf/herbal tea to flush out your system and fill you up.
  • Stop as soon as you can. Don’t fall into this like of thinking: “I already ate a ton of crap, so I might as well eat more.”
  • Find something to do to distract you – typically TV, movies, and computer games are the worst and encourage more bingeing for me.
  • The trash can and garbage disposal are your friends.
  • Write down what you ate, what was going on and how you felt as best as you can remember, to provide some accountability for yourself and to give you something to read over if you feel like bingeing again.
  • Set a plan for regular healthy meals to get you back on track.
  • Get help if you are able to and you feel you can use it.